Catania

Unlike Syracuse, I didn't read anything about Catania. In fact, I was actively trying to avoid going there. Since it looked like a big city and had some notoriety with traffic, parking, and the dreaded ZLT (Zona Limitata di Traffico). Not the most pleasant conditions to drive. On the outskirts, it feels like a chaotic derelict mess, with randomness creeping through every narrow street. Three underage kids making zig-zags on a scooter, a horse! strolling alone. But once we leave the car and start walking, the city unfolds into an unexpected pleasant surprise.

The Pescheria (fish market) is bustling with action, chopped swordfish, and a lot of Italian gesticulations. Lines of grandpas are watching the transactions. Some of them seem to have a sharp eye for pretty women too. In the brief time I leave Yana on her own, to capture some photos, one grandpa sends her kisses, and another removes his face mask and proclaims an emphatic "Mama Mia" to her, together with pinched fingers gesture. Easy gramps!

The main square is impressive, pedestrian-friendly, with wide open spaces, and great architecture. I don't remember something like this in Greece, somehow we managed to destroy most of the pretty buildings in exchange for ugly blocks of flats. Italy seems to have a lot of unique places but is in a rundown state. There is a huge potential but also a feel of rundown abandon. But even in this condition, there is splendor and details from a time of craftsmanship, and attention to the human element. It is a joy to walk in such places. Especially when cars are banned.